Sunday

Some flowers (10 pics)

My lithops are usually quick to show flower buds but there's still nothing, not even a hint. I doubt I'll see any flowers this year, there has been very little sunlight and warmth for that. But at least some of the other plants don't mind. There have been several conophytum flowers and there are new buds visible.

Conophytum fulleri 

Conophytum pellucidum ssp. cupreatum v. terrestre

Conophytum angelicae ssp. tetragonum

Conophytum uviforme ssp. decoratum

Avonia albissima multiramosa has been flowering, or rather producing seed pods as I'm pretty sure the flowers do not open. I might have missed them but, really, I've never ever seen them open in my life. It always goes from bud to seed pod.


Funny thing is that the branches are normally lying flat on the ground, but when the seed pods are almost ripe they get pushed up and the branches suddenly lift into upright position, just for a day or so. I wonder what is happening there chemically that makes them do that.

The seeds are all viable and I've been sowing them a lot over the last couple of years. They germinate perfectly but then grow so slowly they die before they can gain any weight. I currently have several seedlings but it looks like only one of them is going to survive. It took it 2 years to get to this size. FML.



Anacampseros namaquensis (An17) has grown one flower only with much effort this year. As most Anacampseros flowers are pale rose-white I was really looking forward to this bright pink flower. But it never opened. Hope it has at least produced some seeds. I really like this plant.


Ah, and this young Avonia quinaria ssp. quinaria has opened both its flowers this weekend! Here is one of them.


Saturday

More observations on Anacampseros (6 pics)

This is the first year I am growing several adult Anacampseros of all different kinds and can watch and compare how they grow throughout the year. For a plant nerd this is really fascinating. In my last "observations" I was talking about new growth coming from underneath and this one will continue this thought.

It looks to me that these plants tend to abandon the branches that have extensively flowered. As if producing the flower stalk is sucking all the juices out of it. Well, considering the size of those flower stalks, no wonder! What I have seen in the multi-branched plants that flowered this year is that the flowering branches drop leaves one by one until they look like bald twigs with only a couple of leaves at the top and no signs of new growth. If I think back to last winter when I got the majority of my adult plants, some of them have arrived with such "towers", meaning the towers have not grown any new leaves or branches of their own to cover the baldness during fall and winter. This year it seems the same thing is happening and my guess is that this is quite natural. Not very pretty though. 

I don't need my Anacampseros plants to be big and so trimming those twig-towers looks like an option to keep the plants round-ish and compact. This year I have trimmed two plants with good results. 

Remember this plant I was showing back in February?

Anacampseros arachnoides, An35

Well, I thought the towers quite ugly and cut them off shortly after. Since then the plant grew new leaves and branches with fresh strength and then flowered. And you have to admit the general look is much better.

Moreover, as I felt sad to throw away the towers, I tried to root them, and it worked! They looked so dead and then, when they were cut off and not dependent on the roots and resources of the big plant, they really flourished. (This sentence sounds like some kind of lesson for humans I'm not going to elaborate on.)

Here they are when they just barely rooted and started to show some green.


Here they are now.


The other plant in a similar situation is my beautiful Anacampseros vanthielii. Here is the photo from May this year, when I was pondering on whether it's going to abandon the "tops".


Well, it did. And I should have cut the yellow branches then and there. I kept them in the hope that all the growth from below will eventually consume them or some new leaves will come out from the top. I think the plant was just wasting energy on them and that's why didn't flower. Meanwhile the tops grew scruffy-looking. A month ago I took my scissors and cut off all the yellow stuff and look at that! The "undergrowth" spread its leaves and got a healthy color under the sun. And the plant is now a cute ball of leaves and hairs. I should have cut off all the yellow parts back in the spring.


This year, as the flowering nears its end, I see some plants abandoning the flowering branches and I will be cutting them off and rooting them this time without a second thought. It benefits the plants and creates "back-up copies" I can give away. 

Thursday

Transplanting some older seedlings (14 pics)

I've been transplanting some plants that probably didn't need any transplanting. What started as "these seedlings are kinda small for their age, better check the roots" ended up as "let's check them all!" I have ordered pumice from ebay lately and it was a bad idea. Now I'm back to my usual supplier. How great his stuff is in comparison! Transplanting is so much more fun when you are using good quality pumice. 

I'm generally proud of my seedlings, all of them. No matter how well-grown the plants are we buy from someone, plants grown from seeds always seem to be the prettiest of all to me. Not partial at all! ;D But, to be honest, the plants that have germinated and grown under the same conditions all their lives, really do appreciate it. You also have good control over their shape if you watch them closely and treat them accordingly. You know how big a fan I am of plants that are small and really flat to the ground. It is not easy to get such plants as adults. But with seedlings hatched and grown in pumice without any extra food, that is how they will eventually turn up looking. Not much effort involved. They grow very slowly though. And show their true patterns quite late. I'm not growing them for sale so that's okay.

The seedlings that appeared small-ish to me are the L. lesliei ssp. burchellii (C308), sown back in 2011. It's been 5 years! You might remember them from herehere or here. Cute kids they were. Well, I'm not sure if that's it with their size and they won't grow any larger but they seem to be fit and strong with nice root systems. So maybe fresh substrate will give them a bit more energy. They show a variety of patterns and I tried to regroup them according to their looks. You would probably not notice the difference but I did have a system.

They also like to dig themselves in. Here is a "before" picture.


Squeeze and pull! That is why clay pots are not recommended, btw ;)


Also, it's absolutely okay to remove half of the fine roots, or even more, along with the rests of old substrate during transplantation. The fine roots grow back in no time. I think the trimming actually stimulates them.



The others I spontaneously decided to re-pot are the L. aucampiae ssp. aucampiae v. aucampiae 'White Flower' (C002A) seedlings I got from seeds of the plants I got from Mr. Shimada when I was living in Japan. Well, the parent plants were way too huge to survive long under my conditions. But at least I got seeds and this is what I have to show for it now. Back in 2012 they looked so week and ugly and strange. Then they got better and better and now they are such beauties! The uniform color, the perfect shape, the manageable size. I do mean to brag!

The size of Mr. Ingenwepelt's plants is what I'm going for so if we compare the L. aucampiae head size, mine should not get any bigger.



I've refreshed the substrate for some other seedlings too.

Some nameless L. lesliei seedlings.


The Ventergreens (C001A), from own seeds. They look all grown up but never flower. That's my curse :) At least the leaves look very pretty.



This L. lesliei ssp. lesliei v. lesliei 'Storms’s Albinigold' (C036B) is two-headed but tiny, sown sometime 2008. One of my first.



This L. bromfieldii v. glaudinae 'Rubroroseus' (C393A) went a bit too far in its flatness. I have a bunch of "kinda small" Rubroroseus seedings while their siblings are already adult looking. New substrate it is.



Friday

Older lithops seedlings (2 pics) and info about seed extraction and age

Not only older lithops seedlings but actually 6 years old lithops seedlings. Can you believe that? These are the guys from the so-called "pumice experiment" back in 2010 which is now my standard procedure (oh my, they are so tiny there). I was disappointed for a very long time that they didn't look like "mariae" I wanted them to be - all dotty. Instead they looked like regular lesliei. However, now, 6 years later, the proper looks are apparent. The fine dotty lines and the sandy color. I remember reading that "mariae" are the largest among lesliei but mine are rather compact.

It's always amusing to develop plants from seed. Regardless of the possibility that you know roughly what's in store you never comprehend what their development example will be or how the seedlings will turn out at last. It is significantly more enjoyable to develop something from seed that you have not developed some time recently. Of course, more often than not you are simply think about how to administer to such seedlings. What's more, you do commit errors. Be that as it may, this is all piece of the enjoyment of revelation and will enable you to comprehend the plants later.

I have had a go at developing Conophytums from seed earlier however they either didn't grow or kicked the bucket directly after. Thus I consider my most recent endeavor the real initially attempt. They experienced several leaf changes and they are as yet alive. Being one year old, they rested in the spring simply like grown-ups. In any case, they were so exceptionally little! I truly would not like to give them a chance to do that, reasoning they have to get greater first. They didn't tune in, obviously, and were simply doing their thing. I woke them up again as of late and fortunately every one of them appear to be alive underneath the sheaths. Possibly it wasn't a smart thought to wake them up a month early but on the other hand that is a piece of the experience.
L. lesliei ssp. lesliei v. mariae (C141)




Removing seed from capsules

I have discovered that there are most likely three methods for extricating seeds from dry containers. Lithops seed containers, as other Mesemb cases are hydrochastic – essentially implying that they just open when they end up plainly wet. This is a defensive seed sparing system that lone enable seeds to be uncovered and wash out amid stormy climate. At the point when the container winds up plainly dry once more, it shuts again and secures the rest of the seed until the following downpours. It is entrancing to see this out of the blue.

Learners tends to hook onto this characteristic to extricate the seed – wet the container and when it opens, select the seed onto espresso channel paper with a toothpick and permit to dry. While I will concede this has some remedial impact, it remains a horribly ease back procedure to process substantial amounts of seed.

A somewhat quicker approach is to pound the container on a sheet of paper with a strong question, and dispose of any husks. Ensure every one of the seeds have been expelled from the husk. Choose the staying ones with a toothpick.

When you get into genuine sowing, you will require a quicker approach. I have adjusted this from a trap Flip Bornman showed me. Splash the seeds for a few hours in water to diminish them. They will likewise open up and discharge seeds yet this isn't imperative for this strategy – simply ensure you recoup any seeds that were discharged amid this time.

At the point when the cases have doused for two or three hours and the husk are delicate, toss them in a 20cm profound compartment and cleave them up with a stick blender. Try not to stress – you won't harm the seeds. The seeds (in any event the practical ones) rapidly drop to base and the trash drifting can be tapped and disposed of. In the event that there is fine flotsam and jetsam that are hard to empty, everything can be poured through a kitchen sifter, gathering the seeds at the base. Ensure all seed have washed trough. Empty abundance water from the seeds. Place a napkin or cover kitchen towel up a glass, jab a mark into it and empty the seed-water blend onto it and abandon it to dry. When dry, the seeds can be painstakingly scratched up and put away.

Information about seed age.

Seeds that are not going to be utilized quickly are, as per my present seeing, best put away in the entire cases at room temperature. Seeds stay practical for up to 10 years if put away along these lines. A few producers claims debasement and lessening in feasibility once seeds are more established than 7 years. I have had great outcomes with seeds that were stockpiled up to 13 years in their cases.

In any case, seeds that are fresher (under 2-5 month old) regularly sprout whimsically or gradually contrasted with more seasoned seeds that were sown in the meantime. I have had seeds that stayed lethargic for 3 months before they all of a sudden began to grow. I don't know whether this is same system that frequently influences develop seeds to sprout in groups.

In a few examinations known amounts of new seeds were sown. After around two weeks 10% of seed had developed. The rest of the seeds and substrate were dried out for two weeks and saturated once more. 40% of the seed at that point developed generally rapidly.

In view of this, in the event that you get seed endeavor to set up when it was gathered and hold up 5 to a half year after reap before sowing. This takes some persistence however.


At the point when to sow Lithops

I have had great outcomes sowing Lithops at different circumstances of the year. Best germination temperatures have all the earmarks of being around 20 – 28 ⁰C. I have effectively developed Lithops inside amid South-African Winter months and move them out to defensive territories in August. Else I like to sow in August and September to get a head begin before the warmth of summer sets in. When temperatures begin to drop again as pre-winter approaches, I will begin sowing once more, even up to April. This offers some an opportunity to set up seedlings and to some degree solidify them off before temperatures drop too low here. All things considered, I have as of late effectively developed somewhere in the range of 50 pots that were sown in January amid seven days in length spell of stormy climate.

Best germination comes about have a tendency to agree with blustery climate and somewhat cooler temperatures. Probably the high moistness related with blustery climate bolsters enhanced germination. Actually, it isn't remarkable for seed to abruptly grow en mass in built up pots that have been sown months (and in some cases years) prior when climatic conditions change. I don't think all the physiological components controlling Mesemb seed germination are completely seen yet, at any rate not by my.

Recent lithops seedlings (6 pics)

I've been trying to germinate some old lithops seeds quite unsuccessfully over the last year. I barely have something to show for it. I even thought I lost some key skill until I tried sowing fresh seeds from my own plants that germinated perfectly. 

The only real success among the 2015 lithops seedlings are the L. lesliei ssp. lesliei var. rubrobrunnea that hatched last October. They are developing nicely in size and in color. The new leaves are actually quite red and very attractive. In my experience L. lesliei and L. bromfieldii rarely disappoint when grown from seed. 


The next seedlings, from around the same time, are nameless at the moment. I do have records of what was sown but these guys were transplanted due to bugs and I didn't care enough for them to label them properly. I was pretty sure they won't survive. Told you before, I was neglecting my seedlings badly. Well, now I can't connect their looks to any of the species I was sowing back then. The good news is they are strong and very uniform (I don't mean that couple in the front of the photo) and when they are bigger a name can hopefully be attached to them. 


A big surprise was to find some rarities among last year's survivors. These are L. lesliei "Fred's Redhead, L. salicola "Bacchus" and L. localis "Pinky" (one of them already two-headed).


Last year I could get some seeds from my L. verruculosa plants. Up until now I could never manage to grow them from seed. Maybe because they're touchy or maybe because they are normally sold in small quantities. I really like how these guys are developing though. Plump happy seedlings.


The youngest are these L. dorothea, also grown from my own seeds. They started germinating poorly (see those bigger ones) and then one month later everything sprouted! Looking forward to the natural variation in these plants.